第25章

PARA

Religious Holidays--Marmoset Monkeys--Serpents--Insects Before leaving the subject of Para, where I resided, as already stated, in all eighteen months, it will be necessary to give a more detailed account of several matters connected with the customs of the people and the Natural History of the neighbourhood, which have hitherto been only briefly mentioned.Ireserve an account of the trade and improved condition of Para in 1859 for the end of this narrative.

During the first few weeks of our stay, many of those religious festivals took place, which occupied so large a share of the time and thoughts of the people.These were splendid affairs, wherein artistically-arranged processions through the streets, accompanied by thousands of people, military displays, the clatter of fireworks, and the clang of military music, were superadded to pompous religious services in the churches.To those who had witnessed similar ceremonies in the Southern countries of Europe, there would be nothing remarkable perhaps in these doings, except their taking place amidst the splendours of tropical nature; but to me they were full of novelty, and were besides interesting as exhibiting much that was peculiar in the manners of the people.

The festivals celebrate either the anniversaries of events concerning saints, or those of the more important transactions in the life of Christ.To them have been added, since the Independence, many gala days connected with the events in the Brazilian national history; but these have all a semi-religious character.The holidays had become so numerous, and interfered so much with trade and industry towards the year 1852, that the Brazilian Government was obliged to reduce them; obtaining the necessary permission from Rome to abolish several which were of minor importance.Many of those which have been retained are declining in importance since the introduction of railways and steamboats, and the increased devotion of the people to commerce;at the time of our arrival, however, they were in full glory.The way they were managed was in this fashion.A general manager or "Juiz" for each festival was elected by lot every year in the vestry of the church, and to him were handed over all the paraphernalia pertaining to the particular festival which he was chosen to manage; the image of the saint, the banners, silver crowns and so forth.He then employed a number of people to go the round of the parish, and collect alms towards defraying the expenses.It was considered that the greater the amount of money spent in wax candles, fireworks, music and feasting, the greater the honour done to the saint.If the Juiz was a rich man, he seldom sent out alms-gatherers, but celebrated the whole affair at his own expense, which was sometimes to the extent of several hundred pounds.Each festival lasted nine days (a novena), and in many cases refreshments for the public were provided every evening.In the smaller towns a ball took place two or three evenings during the novena, and on the last day there was a grand dinner.The priest, of course, had to be paid very liberally, especially for the sermon delivered on the Saint's Day or termination of the festival, sermons being extra duty in Brazil.

There was much difference as to the accessories of these festivals between the interior towns and villages and the capital; but little or no work was done anywhere whilst they lasted, and they tended much to demoralise the people.It was soon perceived that religion is rather the amusement of the Paraenses, than their serious exercise.The ideas of the majority evidently do not reach beyond the belief that all the proceedings are, in each case, in honour of the particular wooden image enshrined at the church.The uneducated Portuguese immigrants seemed to me to have very degrading notions of religion.

I have often travelled in the company of these shining examples of European enlightenment.They generally carry with them, wherever they go, a small image of some favourite saint in their trunks, and when a squall or any other danger arises, their first impulse is to rush to the cabin, take out the image and clasp it to their lips, whilst uttering a prayer for protection.The negroes and mulattos are similar in this respect to the low Portuguese, but I think they show a purer devotional feeling; and in conversation, I have always found them to be more rational in religious views than the lower orders of Portuguese.As to the Indians; with the exception of the more civilised families residing near the large towns, they exhibit no religious sentiment at all.They have their own patron saint, St.Thome, and celebrate his anniversary in the orthodox way, for they are fond of observing all the formalities; but they think the feasting to be of equal importance with the church ceremonies.At some of the festivals, masquerading forms a large part of the proceedings, and then the Indians really shine.They get up capital imitations of wild animals, dress themselves to represent the Caypor and other fabulous creatures of the forest, and act their parts throughout with great cleverness.When St.Thome's festival takes place, every employer of Indians knows that all his men will get drunk.The Indian, generally too shy to ask directly for cashaca (rum), is then very bold; he asks for a frasco at once (two-and-a-half bottles), and says, if interrogated, that he is going to fuddle in honour of St.Thome.