第4章 CHAPTER III(1)

From the Fleet's Arrival at Teneriffe,to its Departure for Rio de Janeiro,in the Brazils.

There is little to please a traveller at Teneriffe.He has heard wonders of its celebrated Peak,but he may remain for weeks together at the town of Santa Cruz without having a glimpse of it,and when its cloud-topped head emerges,the chance is,that he feels disappointed,for,from the point of view in which he sees it,the neighbouring mountains lessen its effect very considerably.Excepting the Peak,the eye receives little pleasure from the general face of the country,which is sterile and uninviting to the last degree.The town,however,from its cheerful white appearance,contrasted with the dreary brownness of the back ground,makes not an unpleasing coup d'oeil.It is neither irregular in its plan,nor despicable in its style of building;and the churches and religious houses are numerous,sumptuous,and highly ornamented.

The morning of our arrival,as many officers as could be spared from the different ships were introduced to the Marquis de Brancifort,Governor of the Canary Islands,whose reception was highly flattering and polite.His Excellency is a Sicilian by birth,and is most deservedly popular in his government.He prefers residing at Teneriffe,for the conveniency of frequent communication with Europe,to the Grand Canary,which is properly the seat of power;and though not long fixed here,has already found means to establish a manufactory in cotton,silk,and thread,under excellent regulations,which employs more than sixty persons,and is of infinite service to the common people.During our short stay we had every day some fresh proof of his Excellency's esteem and attention,and had the honour of dining with him,in a style of equal elegance and splendor.At this entertainment the profusion of ices which appeared in the desert was surprising,considering that we were enjoying them under a sun nearly vertical.But it seems the caverns of the Peak,very far below its summit,afford,at all seasons,ice in abundance.

The restless importunity of the beggars,and the immodesty of the lowest class of women,are highly disgusting.From the number of his countrymen to be found,an Englishman is at no loss for society.In the mercantile houses established here,it is from gentlemen of this description that any information is derived,for the taciturnity of the Spaniards is not to be overcome in a short acquaintance,especially by Englishmen,whose reserve falls little short of their own.The inland country is described as fertile,and highly romantic;and the environs of the small town of Laguza mentioned as particularly pleasant.Some of our officers who made an excursion to it confirmed the account amply.