第3章 Classic Styles复古风潮
时尚永远不知满足。每一年，设计师和各个时尚品牌都在忙碌地更新，从推出秋冬系列到春夏系列，中间还会穿插度假系列，不给自己留一点喘息的机会。然而就在最近，这个经济危机时期，女人们开始不再把注意力放在快速又变幻莫测的商业时尚上了，她们纷纷回归到传统时尚，挑选那些经典、独特、规矩、永久的服装款式。换句话说就是，复古风潮来了。
Realize Classic Fashion Style
认识不老的时尚经典
1 不老的时尚经典
Classic fashion styles are the looks that last through the ages and appear flattering on almost anyone. They go beyond trends and are a triumph of art. Despite the decade, figure or fashion, classic styles are always a demonstration of truly refined taste.
Classic fashion always starts with the simplest of ideas. Silhouettes are sleek and concepts are unpolluted. It is this clean thinking that allows a classic fashion to melt into any current theme or style.
The biggest benefit with classic styles is that they're never trendy. Trendy styles are meant to push the boundaries and draw attention to the garment. A trendy look is meant to make a bold statement and never slips gracefully into the fashion parade.
Not being trendy means classic clothes are timeless. You cannot look at a classic garment and automatically know it was produced in the 1970s. The garment should be so sublime that any decade and any designer may have created it.
The little black dress is a perfect example of classic fashion. This simple garment is still a favorite for women everywhere, and a basic necessity in any fashionable wardrobe. It suits different body shapes, different personalities and different styles. The original dress design can slip as easily into a modern party as any reinvention.
The common black tuxedo is another example of classic fashion. The traditional garment is used by men almost everywhere, and changes little from decade to decade. The simple jacket, pant and bow-tie combination creates a sleek elegance that needs no alteration to fit into any formal situation.
Classic fashions tend to stick with classic colors as well as classic lines. Black, blue, white and brown are much more common than bright yellow, hot pink and neon orange. Natural materials, such as cotton, silk and leather, are much more common than synthetics, such as polyester, rayon and pleather.
2 各种复古时尚经典的表达方式
Roman style 罗马风格
The Roman style got the legacy of its antique parent. The clothes were rather comfortable and expedient. However, some uncharacteristic for the antique style extravagances appeared there were called “barbaric novelties”. The Roman style was very much influenced by the development of the home craft.
Gothic style 哥特风格
Fitting clothes appeared in the Gothic times. The clothes were cut and sewn very skillfully. Even now there exists an opinion that the gothic cut is unsurpassed. To understand the character of the gothic dress you should imagine the architecture of this style.
Renaissance 文艺复兴风格
This style appeared under the influence of the humanistic ideas of Renaissance. The clothes aspired to the harmony expressed in the symmetry and absence of excess. Renaissance refuses out-of-order waistline-only natural proportions.
Rococo 洛可可风格
It was France that offered an intimate style, later called “rococo”. The French court was the first one to get tired of the splendor of baroque. Huge garments of the previous epoch were reduced to natural human sizes. Another typical feature of this style is its proximity to nature.
Baroque 巴洛克风格
Baroque gave birth to new fabrics and decorations. The new epoch welcomed velvet and metal instead of silk and lace dominated earlier. This style is known as eccentric and luxurious.
Romanticism 浪漫主义风格
Romanticism epoch was linked with the development of industry that allowed not only noblemen to dress well, but bourgeoisie, too. As a result, a bourgeois character dominated in clothes. A romantic-styled man had two gaudy parts: a collar that became even stiffer and higher and cuffs, being lower than sleeves of a frock coat.
洛可可艺术风格与巴洛克艺术风格最显著的差别就是，洛可可艺术更趋向一种精致而幽雅，具装饰性的特色。这种特色当然会影响到当时的服装，甚至以“洛可可”一词代表法国大革命之前18世纪的服装款式。哥特艺术风格主要表现的是建筑上的“锐角三角形”，同时也深深地影响了当时的服饰审美及服饰创造。例如，在男女服饰的整体轮廓上，在衣服的袖子上以及鞋子的造型上、帽子的款式上等等，都充分呈现出锐角三角形的形态。
Key words & Sentences
关键词句全知道
Jumpsuits - This one-piece pants and shirt combo that was enormously popular in the 1960's has enjoyed a surprising renaissance, with a sturdy presence on the runways of designers such as Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney.
连衣裤——这种一件套的衣裤组合在20世纪60年代的时候非常流行，让人惊讶的是，现在它又兴起来了，你在T台经常能看到亚历山大·麦昆以及斯特拉·麦卡特尼等许多设计师的此类作品。
Hats - Big, floppy hats are one of the nostalgic styles that labels like DKNY have reintroduced, and they are an ideal way to protect your face from the sun's harmful rays.
帽子——又大又软的帽子拥有一种怀旧风格，像唐可娜儿这样的品牌就把这种帽子再次带回大家的视线。这种帽子能完美地帮你阻挡有害的太阳射线。
Bucket hats, straw hats, and fedoras are also proving quite popular, if they are made of a cool, breathable material and decorated with an interesting fabric.
如果是由凉快透气的材料制成的斗帽、草帽和软呢帽，加上一些有趣的装饰品，是非常受欢迎的。
In Milan, Gucci, Jil Sander, Etro, Marni, Dolce &Gabbana, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Aquilano Rimondi all showed elegant, classic versions of women's suits-tailored jackets with either pants or skirts to match.
在意大利的米兰，古奇（Gucci）、吉尔·桑达（Jil Sander）、Etro、玛尼（Marni）、杜嘉班纳（Dolce &Gabbana）、普拉达（Prada）、宝缇嘉（Bottega Veneta）和Aquilano Rimondi都推出了优雅而经典的女性套装——西装外套搭配长裤或裙装。
The new look is comfortable, strong and far from body-revealing.
新款式则让人感觉舒服、强势，它们也远非曲线毕露。
It's redolent of the Charlie girl - the pantsuit-wearing woman in the early1970s ads for the Revlon perfume.
这让人回想起查理（Charlie）女孩儿——上世纪70年代初露华浓（Revlon）香水广告里那些穿着套装的女性。
But in Milan, Tomas Maier, who showed a swank “Charlie girl” suit for Bottega Veneta, recalled that'70s optimism. Clothes are not in control.
不过在米兰，托马斯·迈尔（Tomas Maier）让人重新回想起了70年代的乐观情绪。他为宝缇嘉推出了一款优雅的“查理女孩儿”套装。
Basic Black Dress - The basic black dress has been around for a long time. It is often called the “Little Black Dress”, and it's true that shorter skirts on the basic black dress, when they hit you in the right place, can be more flattering than a long black dress.
小黑裙永远排在第一位，一条裁剪做工精良的黑色连衣裙可以是奥黛丽·赫本，也可以是玛丽莲·梦露，不管时尚如何轮回，都是经典中的经典。
Trench Coat - The trench coat is one of the pieces that is both classic and currently a hot fashion item. Most any store sells this piece now. It is great for fall and you can pick it up in a wide range of lengths.
风衣在春秋两季都是造型良品，也非常实用。
When models took to the spring/summer catwalk at Chanel decked in clunky wooden clogs, a collective eyebrow was raised.
当模特们穿着粗陋笨重的厚底木屐在香奈儿（Chanel）的春夏季时装发布台上走起猫步时，众人大跌眼镜。
Classic Shirt - The white shirt is a definite classic. But it can also come in many different styles to make it look trendy and not dated or like a man's piece of clothing. Find one that accentuates your best attributes and minimizes trouble spots. For example, if you have wide shoulders, stay away from large collars.
经典白衬衫也是很多白领的最爱，不过越是简单的衣服越考验裁剪和质量，不容易找到好的，很多女孩永远在寻找下一件白衬衫。
An amazing burst of bright colors, a wide palette of delicious tangerine, explosion of flowers, an optimistic feel of the'70s, innocent white lace and pure second-skin shades, timeless denim, versatile crisp white shirts, and flowing maxi dresses are among the hottest trends for the warm season that is just around the corner.
亮颜色的惊艳爆发，多种美味的橘子色调，碎花，70年代的感觉，无邪的白色蕾丝和纯净的裸色，永不过时的牛仔布料，褶皱白衬衫，飘逸的长裙都是即将到来的春夏季最热门的潮流趋势。
White denim - Seasonably bright and heat-repellent, white is a summer classic.
白色牛仔布——应季的白亮又不吸热，白色是夏天的经典颜色。
“Tribal” - Demure solid grays are out, vibrant color and batik prints are in.
“部落风”——矜持的纯灰色已经过时了，鲜艳夺目的颜色和蜡纺印花正流行。
Mackenzie believes that dress is “going to be something very timeless and classic. Very sophisticated”.
有人认为婚纱将是一件“永恒经典而又精细的完美嫁衣”。
Let's Talk！
开始交流吧！
Emy: The girls wear very beautiful clothes, and every year's fashion trend is different.
艾米：女孩子们穿的衣服很漂亮，每年的时尚趋势也都不一样！
Anna: Yes. During the three decades of reform and opening-up, people's feeling toward beauty of dressing has changed a lot.
安娜：是呀！改革开放这三十多年来，人们对服装的美感改变了很多！
Emy: Oh, then what style do people dress thirty years before?
艾米：哦，那么三十年前人们穿什么样子呢？
Anna: People at that time usually dress in dark color, and the styles of clothes are limited.
安娜：那时候人们还主要穿深暗色的衣服，衣服的款式也很有限。
Emy: But now we have more styles to choose, and there are many rules for dressing. And girls wear less and less clothes over these years!
艾米：现在的服装款式很多，里面的讲究也很多。而且女孩们的衣服越穿越少了！
Anna: Right, this shows China becomes more open. But summer has passed, girls should wear more clothes, they had better not always need charming rather than warming!
安娜：对，这也是说明中国变得更加开放了。但是夏天过去了，女孩们应该穿点厚衣服啦，不能总“要风度不要温度”啦！
Emy: But, in China, there is a kind of classic styly which is popular for ever.
艾米：但是，在中国有一样经典复古的衣服款式是永远流行的。
Anna: What is it?
安娜：是什么？
Emy: Have a guess.
艾米：你猜猜。
Anna: Is it Chi-pao?
安娜：是旗袍？
Emy: You got it. Chinese people like the feeling brought by Chi-pao. and it is exotic.
艾米：对了，人们很喜欢旗袍带来的复古的感觉，而且真是有异域味道。
Anna: Yes, more and more foreigners fall in love with it.
安娜：是啊，很多外国人都喜欢中国旗袍。