Part 2 Pattern Construction

1.Drawing Method

There are several methods to develop pattern for the three-dimensional human body，such as flat pattern，drafting and modeling or draping，etc.All these methods can use exact body measurements，basic ease and design fullness.

（1）Flat Pattern：In the flat-pattern design process，a basic pattern is developed to fit an individual body or a standard dress form，and the basic pattern already has a designated shape and ease allowance.All subsequent patterns are from this base，such as production patterns.The professional designer always adopts the flat pattern to develop ready-to-wear，because standard size patterns are the base of design development for these establishments.

（2）Drafting：Drafting is a more mechanical method of pattern design methods.It uses engineering skills to develop pattern lines directly on pattern paper by using body measurements with ease allowances，and it is the outline drawing of a pattern，which has to be traced-off to obtain the finished pattern.Exact body measurements must be taken to ensure an accurate pattern.Drafting methods are used more for stable ready-to-wear items than for fashionable apparel.

（3）Modeling：The modeling method is the art of draping material on a figure to get the shape of the garment，and it is a creative approach to pattern design.The modeling can provide a clear view of fabric drape and overall design effect of the finished garment before the garment components are cut and sewn together.During draping，basic ease can be pinned into pleats，gather，tucks，and so on，which are released in the development of pattern later.

2.Taking Body Measurements

Body measurements can be divided into three categories，named as girth measurements，across horizontal measurements and vertical measurements（Fig.5-7 Measurement Taking Indications）.

（1）Girth Measurements：The measurements are taken around different positions around the body.

Fig.5-7 Measurement Taking Indications

（a）Head Circumference：Measure around the fullest part of head horizontally，and tighten the tape in order to prevent it from sagging in the head.

（b）Neck Size：Measure around the neck joint passing the nape and inner side of the clavicle at the front.

（c）Bust Girth：Measure over the fullest part of bust，with the tape straight across the back，to prevent it from sagging in the back.

（d）Waist Girth：Take the measurement horizontally around the smallest part of the waist.When the smallest part is not easy to identify，tighten a fine string horizontally around the waist on a level with the elbow of the arm naturally extended downward.

（e）Hip Girth：Measure at the fullest part of hip in a straight line around the body.

（f）Thigh Girth：Measure around the thigh.

（g）Knee Girth：Measure around the knee.

（h）Ankle Girth：Measure around the ankle.

（i）Upper Arm Girth：Measure around the fullest part of the upper arm horizontally.

（j）Elbow Girth：Bend the arm and measure around the elbow passing the elbow point.

（k）Wrist Girth：Measure around the wrist slightly loosely.

（2）Across Measurements：The measurements are taken on the body horizontally and across.

（a）Shoulder-to-Shoulder：Measure the width of shoulder points between the left side and right side through the nape，and also named as“Shoulder Width”.

（b）Cross Back/X-Back：Measure the width of back arm joint points between the left side and right side，also named as“Back Width”.

（c）Cross Front：Measure between the joints of both arms，also named as“Chest Width”.

（d）Bust Point to Bust Point：Measure between both bust points.

（3）Vertical Measurements：The measurements are taken on the body vertically.

（a）Nape to Waist：Measure the center back from the nape to the waistline，also named as“Center of Back Waist Length”.

（b）Shoulder to Waist Line：Measure from the center of the shoulder line to the waist line through the bust point.

（c）Shoulder to Bust Point：Measure from the side neck point to the bust point.

（d）Full back Length：After having measured the back waist length，slightly press the tape at the waist line，and then continue measuring along the contour down to the floor.

（e）Sleeve Length：Bend arm up，measure from the base point of neck across shoulder point to elbow crook，and up over wrist bone.

（f）Elbow Length：Slightly bend the elbow and measure from the shoulder point to the elbow point.

（g）Waist to Hips：Measure the distance between the waist line and hip line.

（h）Crotch Depth：Measure at the side seam from the waist line to the chair seat，and the chair should be flat and firm.It is also named as“Body Rise”.

（i）Skirt Length：Measures the length between waistline and the hemline of a skirt.The skirt length varies depending upon the style in fashion，the kind of garment，the style，age，preference，etc.

（j）Out-leg：Measure from the center of the side waist to the outer ankle，and adjust the measurement to the desired length when drafting，e.g.trousers length is sometimes called“Out-seam”.

（k）In-leg：Measure from the crotch to the desired trousers length，also named as“Inseam”.