服装英语实用教材(第3版)
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Part 3 The Basic Trousers Block

Measurements required to draft the basic trouser block refer to the following size chart(example:size 12).

There is 1cm ease in the waist line of the trousers.The waist line of the trousers should always be eased more than the waist band.

1.Front

Square both ways from 0(as sketch Fig5-8)

0—1 body rise;square across.

0—2 waist to hip;square across.

0—3 waist to floor measurement;square across.

1—4 half the measurement of 1—3 minus 5cm;square across.

1—5 one twelfth hip measurement plus 1.5cm;square up to 6 on the hip line and 7 on the waist line.

6—8 quarter hip measurement plus 0.5cm.

5—9 one sixteenth hip measurement plus 0.5cm.

7—10 1cm;join 10—6,join 6—9 with a curve touching a point of below:

Sizes 8~14  3cm   from5

Sizes 16~22  3.25cm from5

Sizes 24~30  3.5cm  from5

10—11 quarter waist plus 2.25cm.

Construct a dart on the line from 0;length 10cm;width 2cm.

3—12 half trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm.

Fig.5-8 Basic Trousers Block

4—13 the measurement of 3—12 plus 1.3cm(sizes16~22 1.5cm;24~30 1.7cm).

Draw in side seam through points 11,8,13,12;curve 11—8 outwards 0.5cm.

3—14 half trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm.

4—15 the measurement of 4—13.

Draw inside leg seam through points 9,15,14;curve 9—15 inwards 0.75cm.

2.Back

5—16 quarter the measurement of 1—5;square up to 17 on the hip line,18 on the waist line.

16—19 half the measurement of 16—18.

18—20 2cm.

20—21 2cm.

21—22 quarter waist plus 4.25cm;join 21—22 to touch the waist line.

9—23 half the measurement of 5—9.

23—24 0.5cm.

Join 21—19 and 19—24 with a curve touching a point of below:

sizes 8—14  4.25cm from16

sizes 16—22 4.5cm  from16

sizes 24—30 4.75cm from16

17—25 quarter hip plus 1.5c.m.

12—26 1cm.

13—27 1cm.

Draw in side seam through points 22,25,27,26;Curve 22—25 outwards 0.5cm,curve 25—27 inwards 0.5cm.

14—28 1cm.

15—29 1cm.

Draw inside leg seam through points 24,29,28;curve 24—29 inwards 1.25cm.

Divide the line 21—22 into three parts.Mark points 30 and 31.Using the line 21—22 square down from 30 and 31.

Construct darts on these lines 2cm width;12cm length from point 30 and 10cm from point 31.

Curve hem line down 1 cm at point 3.